Hobo Jungle

[2railjon]

was thinkin' about hookin' the B and F-20 to the wagon................

Hev... You figured out way to distill pumpkins into alcohol?



Hey Dirt, The lil' Redhead said it's time to tuck you in for the night!!!!

















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[The Dirt]

Hey, I remember that mill!

That hay-making shot is beautiful, all that green and gold. Beautiful!

Burk, ol' buddy, I'm thrilled for you both. There is nobody more deserving.
None. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Zero!
Congratulations from the Columbia County clan!

[The Dirt]

Jon, LOL!

Maybe if I had met her earlier in life, I WOULD have been able to dunk!

[webenda]

Hev,

Congratulations homeowner! Are you planning where the train room is going to be yet?

[webenda]

Dorf dropped by while Pete was working on the deck. He had this advice...

[AG]

Congratulation HEV!!
When will be the open house???
Andre.

[jperrine6]

Dirt and Web:

Hope ya don't mind, I stole your pictures. If ya do just let me know and I'll delete em. They looked so nice, wish I liver up there Dirt.

Jim


Hev:

I may steal yours too,ifen ya don't mind. I'll have to come over and see the new homestead.

[webenda]

Jim,

In my opinion, when Xerox inventor Chester Carlson teamed up with the Haloid Company to produce and sell Xerox copy machines,
the copyright law went out the window.

Now that we have the internet, we do not even need a copy machine. Anything that you see on your screen is yours (for private
use only of course) if you want it.

As far as I am concerned, the photos I post on this web site are in the public domain. Copy as you like.

[hev52]

Hev... You figured out a way to distill pumpkins into alcohol ?

You betcha'.........................................

http://www.buffalobillsbrewery.com/











hev

[hev52]

Hev,

Congratulations homeowner! Are you planning where the train room is going to be yet?

Thanks Bo's.................................

Wayne............I knew somebody was going to ask me that....................... .............Man I got to git the old layout torn down and also the wall mount layout to. Lots of packin' to do. I know it's going to take a week and a half to git all the stuff in the new place.

I'm going to have the new layout in the attic. Lots of open space up there. I would say it's 20x26. Enough for the big steamers. Would like to be moved in by Thanksgivin' but that's pushin' it...............................



hev

[jperrine6]

Web:

Thanks thats the way I feel also. Just need to know how to download pictures on the board again. I used to know but have since forgoten.

Jim

Also I take pictures in 3 meg size also.

[The Dirt]

Got a question for our master-mechanic, or any other mechanical-gurus.

I have a 4-wheel drive Kia Sportage. The front hubs are engaged via engine-vacuum: a vacuum line from the manifold goes to and exits a small tank, and then to an adjoining solenoid that opens the vacuum to the hubs when the transfer case is shifted. After that, a simple T-joint directs the vacuum to each hub.
I have 20 pounds of vacuum on the wheel-side of the solenoid when shifted to 4-wheel drive. Seems OK.
Vacuum at the R wheel is 20 pounds, at the L wheel about 13, so I guess I have plaque in the L artery.
Regardless, it isn"t shifting the hubs.
I haven"t yet taken a wheel off to get a better look at the hub, but question is, is there any maintenance/lubrication that can be done to the hubs to free them up?

Thanks

I call the Kia dealer, he says I have to bring it in for a diagnostic work-up.

[2railjon]

Pete, I don't know if this will help or not but I found some info on the Kia on WikiAnswers:

If the hubs are stuck in the lock position you will have to remove them and try to clean them and put fresh grease in them check the springs make sure they are not broken or tension is gone out of them best idea is to swap them for warn manual hubs as the auto hubs are known for not working properly, i changed mine over to the Warn manual locking hubs you can get the kits off e-bay.

Hev, Pumpkin ale? Hell yeah! I'm in!! Grab ol' Pete, The tractor and lets hitch up that wagon!!!!!

[Mitch]

Pete, to start with, vacuum is measured in inches/Hg, not pounds. I can't say for sure what the Koreans are up to, there. Generally, most of those systems use a hub that is full time, meaning they are always engaged, and the vacuum unit usually controls a disconnect in the front differential. This type of system means that the front hubs are engaged to the axles, but the axles are not engaged to the differential. When shifted to 4WD, either a manual lever or electric motor engages the front output shaft in the transfer case, and power is going to the differential, but it would be just spinnin' the driveshaft and ring and pinion in the diff, but no power to the wheels until the disconnect engages. On Dodges, this is done at the same time by a vacuum switch on the transfer case which ports vacuum to the disconnect when the lever is pulled into 4WD. Chevy used an electric shift solenoid on the front axle.

But, it sounds like on your system, you're shiftin' into 4WD, and engaging the front diff and at the same time, an electric solenoid is supposed to port vacuum to each hub and engage them.
1. An idling engine in good shape should have about 20 inches of vacuum. Anything about 17 would be fine.
2. Since you have engine vacuum on one side, but less on the other, you should suspect a blockage in either the line itself of possibly the solenoid valve.
3. With all 4 wheels off the ground, engage 4WD, and look underneath. Front driveshaft, differential, and axles should be turning. If only one wheel is turning up front, put a prybar under the spinning wheel, (against the ground), and stop it. If the hubs are engaged, the other wheel should immediately start turning. If not, disconnect the vac hose to the non-turning hub, and use the hose from the other side or a hand vacuum pump, and see if the hub engages. If it does, then disconnect the non-working hose from the solenoid and check for restriction. if ok, measure vacuum directly from solenoid. If not the same as the other side, there's your culprit.
4. If you dis-assemble a hub, clean thoroughly, and if the factory had used grease, apply a light coat to the parts. Generally, I used only a 90weight gear oil on those type of hubs, as grease can really slow them down or stop them from moving all together when it gets really cold. Also, if you do use grease, a very light synthetic would be better than a petroleum grease, as grease and rubber vacuum hoses or connectors do not play well with each other. Grease turns rubber into snot.
5. I am not working on this car over the internet!

One more thing, Pete. The front driveshaft has to be turning, (axles turning) for a hub to fully engage. You could check that also with a hand vacuum pump, applying to both hubs at the same time through the tee, and tuning the driveshaft by hand. Usually that way, only 1 front wheel would turn, then rotate the shaft in the opposite direction, and the other wheel would turn. I am not going to work on this car over the internet!

Damn it! I hate it when a Great Dane just got done drinkin' water and comes in and sticks his head right over my mouse hand. Friggin' slobber mouth!

[The Dirt]

Thanks, Jon, appreciate it. Mine are stuck in the UN-lock position, lucky for me, or I wouldn't be able to drive it on dry roads. I'm guessing they're spring-loading, so that the disengagement is automatic when the vacuum goes away.
I've heard about those kits, but if I can effect a repair that only requires some gear oil, that's how I'll go.

Mitch, the vacuum lines go directly to the hubs.

I had 20 off the manifold, and 20 off the solenoid when powered. A simple "T" splits that vacuum and shunts it to both wheels.

At the R wheel, I get 20, at the L wheel, maybe 13, so I guess I have a line to replace. (It alternates steel line with hose)

So it seems my problem is that the hub mechanisms are frozen, or sluggish, but they ain't grabbing.

(BTW, seems to me like a pretty cheesy way to 'lock' hubs, hence the reason, as Jon discovered, that people are switching to manual hubs)

Mitch, I'm not asking you to talk me through it, but when I pull a wheel,
1) will the dismantle/repair of it be fairly self-evident, and
2) will it require any special tools, and
3) can I reasonably do two in a couple of hours, and
4) Can it be done with the hub body remaining on the suspension without removing brake lines/suspension parts?