The Erie-Built

[Jay Criswell]

I don't see it as mission critical. The only thing I use photobucket for is so I can post photos to various forums without having to figure out the idiosyncrasies of each. If it goes away I'll use the forum's hosting features or nothing. Photobucket is for play. I keep track of the important stuff. I know where every penny goes, what's in the budget, priorities for the business, etc.

Bottom line, I don't need it for the business.

Jay

[Jay Criswell]

The following are photos of Bob's Erie Built nose.

I'll let him make any comments he feels are appropriate.





Jay

[bob turner]

Thanks Jay.
The top photo is the beginning of cleanup. I put a lot of extra wax (now brass) in the windshield area, and am now sneaking up on symmetry. I am not a good plastic modeler, and closing those windshields was a giant pain.

The bottom two show the nose as it came from the foundry. It is an extremely clean casting. Those lines are normal, and polish right out.

The sides will go to the sand foundry tomorrow. Wish me luck.

[De Bruin]

Regardless, the effect is good; I have seen the same windshield "mod" performed on 2nd version plus CLW PA's to get rid of the c-liner like arc (albeit applied to the the casting itself) and it's tricky.
I wish Atlas had gone with the earlier "B17" style windshield on their Erie-builts but (opinion) still a great model

Cool project Bob, second everyone else looking forward to this as it progresses.

[E7]

I am working on my own little (emphasis on little) Erie Built project. I can find tons of pictures, but no drawings with measurements. What I am searching for is the inside and outside diameter of the top headlight, and how far it extends outward from the nose sheet metal? Thanks ahead of time.

Rich

[bob turner]

Considering how accurate the Atlas casting appears to be, I would just measure that. Surely Atlas did not work solely from photos.

[E7]

Considering how accurate the Atlas casting appears to be, I would just measure that. Surely Atlas did not work solely from photos.

Catch 22: If I had one to measure, I'd do so! Anybody out there able to help........or have a link to some drawings?

Rich

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Thanks Jay.
The top photo is the beginning of cleanup. I put a lot of extra wax (now brass) in the windshield area, and am now sneaking up on symmetry. I am not a good plastic modeler, and closing those windshields was a giant pain.

I would have loved have seen the before; the master that was used.

What does the cleanup entail?

The sides will go to the sand foundry tomorrow. Wish me luck.

I would liked to have seen what those looked like too.

And good luck, but luck is for those that lack skills and talents - you do not need luck except to counter the perversity of the Universe,

[bob turner]

The brass nose is identical in size to the plastic one. We maybe lose 1/2 of a percent due to metal shrinkage. With the exception of the windshield, the casting is simply identical to the Atlas nose. Next post will have headlight dimensions.

These bodies cost around $30. The lost-plastic does have risks; not all are successful, and if one fails, one needs another body. Not so sand casting; the sides will come back along with the brass. I will take photos then. The luck involved here is in how the plastic pulls out of the sand. It depends on draft angles.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

The brass nose is identical in size to the plastic one. We maybe lose 1/2 of a percent due to metal shrinkage. With the exception of the windshield, the casting is simply identical to the Atlas nose. Next post will have headlight dimensions.

These bodies cost around $30. The lost-plastic does have risks; not all are successful, and if one fails, one needs another body. Not so sand casting; the sides will come back along with the brass. I will take photos then. The luck involved here is in how the plastic pulls out of the sand. It depends on draft angles.

Thanks. Looking forward to seeing it all and how you assemble the parts, too.

[bob turner]

OD .402". ID .332". Protrusion .870" measured from most forward part of nose, top and bottom. Shaped like a pipe - no taper, almost no bevel on the rim.

Caution: I do not know if the Atlas headlight insert has an external bevel.

Martin - doorstop assembly is actually easier than it looks. I clean, bolt, and clamp. Then, using liquid acid flux, I heat with propane until solder flows, touching all joints with the wire solder. Quick, and easy. Don't touch until cool, unless with welding gloves.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Martin - doorstop assembly is actually easier than it looks. I clean, bolt, and clamp. Then, using liquid acid flux, I heat with propane until solder flows, touching all joints with the wire solder. Quick, and easy. Don't touch until cool, unless with welding gloves.

Seems reasonable.

[E7]

OD .402". ID .332". Protrusion .870" measured from most forward part of nose, top and bottom. Shaped like a pipe - no taper, almost no bevel on the rim.

Caution: I do not know if the Atlas headlight insert has an external bevel.

Bob,

Thanks a lot for the measurements, but shouldn't the protruding part of the headlight be the smallest number?

Rich

PS: Here's a page I found with some measurments FWIW!

http://www.thedieselshop.us/Data%20FM%2 ... UILTS.HTML

[bob turner]

Yes. .087". What do you expect out of me before noon? I am the guy who would start in Las Vegas at 1AM and land at JFK at sunup. Then I was done for.

[up148]

Great project Bob and something we don't get to see everyday. In fact, seldom if ever. Perusing my newly purchased collection of OSN magazines, I'm finding a lot of fun in rereading articles that didn't have much impact with me the 1st time around. Hard to believe you were even more prolific in the late 90's and early 2000's than you are now. Where you still flying commercial birds at the time?

BH