Picking up where we left off last month, window glazing installed and a basic paint job applied:

Turned out the schoolteacher had a supply of transparency sheets, so I played around with that for the better part of a day. I created a set of windows using Excel, giving each a red background. I tried printing using my HP InkJet, but just couldn't get the ink to bond. It stayed "smeary" for hours. I tried spraying them with some fixative, including a spray can of Krylon "Workable Fixatif" I found at Walmart, and some decal fixative I have. Crickets; in desperation, I even tried an overspray of Tamiya clear lacquer, but that that seemed to make the transparency sticky. Never mind, moved onto Plan B.
So I dug out one of my rolls of Tamiya 1mm masking tape and used that on some red acetate I got at Michael's. Laying out sheets of windows didn't work the best because I didn't use great precision, just sorta eyeballed it. The hotel was the worst, because I made sheets to do each side's windows. If you look closely, you'll see mullions all over the place; some in the middle, some near the top, some near the bottom of a window. Having seen a few of the originals from the 1950s, I didn't let it bother me. I think the Japanese used gold paint to create the mullions on their versions...none too neat, but effective. Howard Lamey sent me a link for some printable doors (drawn in the style of the originals). I printed three of them on plain paper and pasted them in. They should be translucent enough to be effective.
One problem for a ham-handed goof like me is cementing these acetate windows into place. I used plain old PVA, placing them while they were stuck on a finger. When positioning, it was easy to smear some PVA on them in obvious places. I hoped the stuff would dry clear and be not too obvious; it did dry clear, but one can still see the small smears. Whatever...
Remember, these will get snow/glitter treatment, so a basic paint job is all that's required. Any sloppiness will get hidden under a covering of fresh snow, lol.
So now back to the contours for the inside curved bit...should be interesting.