Figure painting

All Facets of O-Gauge, 3-Rail, Model Railroading
User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Wed Dec 30, 2020 9:12 am

A couple of snaps, the top being the Plasticville HO figures. I haven't gotten started on these, so the mantle display went without citizens again this year. Should be a good project for the next few months while we remain holed up at the house:

Image

The bottom shot is a 1/2400 "model" of the IJN's Ryujo, painted, based, and ready for the game table. This thing's been laying in the figure pile for a long time. A resin casting by Panzerschiffes, it came close to being tossed a few times for being terribly inaccurate. The issues were many, but primarily involved the shape and length of the flight deck, placement of the 40mm gun tubs, and other hull and superstructure details. There was no way to really fix it, but I figured I could at least make it presentable.

Sarge kicked in a piece of thin sheet styrene from which I could cut a new flight deck. I applied a deck decal to the styrene, then carefully cut it out with scissors and a hobby knife. Liberal use of MicroSol provided a good bond. Before cementing the new deck in place, I repainted the ship in a darker gray and gave it a wash using some black ink. Then I ruined the paint-job with an overspray of Testors clear matte (I've just about given up on this stuff). I cleaned it off, repainted it with the flat dark gray, then a dry-brush with off-white and a bit of burnt sienna. Topped the funnels with a dab of flat black. I then painted the edge of the styrene dark gray to match.

With the painting done, I cemented the new flight deck onto the original using some Loctite GO2. I had to trim the deck slightly to clear the AA positions, but fortunately it's not too noticeable. The new deck, being a bit longer than the original, overhangs too much, especially over the bridge, but no worries. I was going to grind off the edges of the original deck forward (you can see it protruding on either side), but then realized the top-down view was basically correct, the protrusion actually being the gunwales of the hangar deck, one deck down. So I left it...looks sorta okay from an aerial view, but terrible in profile.

I found a clear plastic ODGW etched base for it in the supply drawers, but it was a bit long. I scored it with a knife, then snapped about an inch off the wake-end. I trimmed it up and rounded off the corners using the Dremel and a sanding wheel, then I made a label using Excel, scotch-taped it to the underside, trimming off the excess tape. Glued the ship to the base using more GO2. Normally I would have given the ship a shot of protective clear matte before basing, but until I can find a good alternative to Testors, I'll pass.

I actually have a few planes that I could paint and cement on the deck, but I'll defer on that for now (wingspan is roughly 3/16 of an inch). Instead, fighters are on CAP, everything else is stored below or away on a mission. Now I have a juicy target for my SBDs.

Seems to me, painting a big meatball on the flight deck was a tactical error by the Japanese, but what do I know. :lol:

Rufus T. Firefly
Posts: 41330
Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 6:52 am
Location: Departed from this forum

Re: Figure painting

Postby Rufus T. Firefly » Wed Dec 30, 2020 9:37 am

healey36 wrote:A couple of snaps, the top being the Plasticville HO figures. I haven't gotten started on these, so the mantle display went without citizens again this year. Should be a good project for the next few months while we remain holed up at the house:


I can't see that small!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Then I ruined the paint-job with an overspray of Testors clear matte (I've just about given up on this stuff).


I switched over to the Rustoluem rattle can from HD. Was having stability issues with some of the dry transfers I was using and this stuff proved more tolerable.
Conservatism: The intense fear that somewhere, somehow, someone you think is inferior is being treated as your equal.

User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Wed Dec 30, 2020 9:56 am

Rufus T. Firefly wrote:I switched over to the Rustoluem rattle can from HD. Was having stability issues with some of the dry transfers I was using and this stuff proved more tolerable.

I have a can of that, but it didn't seem to dry very "flat"...still had a bit of a sheen to it.

Are you using it as an overspray after applying decals, or as a base before applying decals?

Rufus T. Firefly
Posts: 41330
Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 6:52 am
Location: Departed from this forum

Re: Figure painting

Postby Rufus T. Firefly » Wed Dec 30, 2020 11:29 am

healey36 wrote:
Rufus T. Firefly wrote:I switched over to the Rustoluem rattle can from HD. Was having stability issues with some of the dry transfers I was using and this stuff proved more tolerable.

I have a can of that, but it didn't seem to dry very "flat"...still had a bit of a sheen to it.

Are you using it as an overspray after applying decals, or as a base before applying decals?


Overspray after applying decals, but as a base and overspray after applying dry transfers.

Does still have a bit of sheen, but a little weathering dusting takes care of that as it seems to have a bit of tooth to it.
Conservatism: The intense fear that somewhere, somehow, someone you think is inferior is being treated as your equal.

User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Sat Mar 06, 2021 12:31 pm

While looking for a few replacement bulbs and LEDs, saw that Town and Country Hobbies is having a sale on figures:

http://stores.towncountryhobbies.com/o-gauge-pewter-figures-accessories/?sort=featured&page=1

Looks like they are block-painted and ready for dipping! Check 'em out...

Healey

User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Sun Sep 05, 2021 11:56 am

I took some time to try painting a 1/48-scale figure using the methods I use on the 1/2400-scale ships. The results were mixed:

Image

Lots of detail on the guy's clothes, but a zombie-like face. Lack of detail usually dooms a wash/dip attempt, and that shows here. With the exception of the Tamiya matte overspray, all acrylic here. I used two parts Vallejo black wash/one part water/one part matte medium. Might try straight wash next time.

You can get away with a lot at the smaller scale, not so much here.

gregj410
Posts: 2495
Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:19 pm
Location: Maryland

Re: Figure painting

Postby gregj410 » Sun Sep 05, 2021 6:44 pm

Looks pretty damn good to me! When I zoom to the point where the edges get fuzzy, it still looks excellent to my eyes. Nice work!

User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Mon Sep 06, 2021 11:46 am

Thanks; one of these days I'll find a recipe that works with acrylics, just not yet. I'm getting close, I can feel it! An acquaintance still uses Humbrol enamels and turpentine with good results, but it is so much work. I freely admit to trying to take a massive short-cut.

What the heck? Is Rufus masquerading as Roger Waters these days?

User avatar
G3750
Posts: 4308
Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 6:02 pm
Location: Cranberry Township, PA USA

Re: Figure painting

Postby G3750 » Mon Sep 06, 2021 6:15 pm

healey36 wrote:A couple of snaps, the top being the Plasticville HO figures. I haven't gotten started on these, so the mantle display went without citizens again this year. Should be a good project for the next few months while we remain holed up at the house:

Image

The bottom shot is a 1/2400 "model" of the IJN's Ryujo, painted, based, and ready for the game table. This thing's been laying in the figure pile for a long time. A resin casting by Panzerschiffes, it came close to being tossed a few times for being terribly inaccurate. The issues were many, but primarily involved the shape and length of the flight deck, placement of the 40mm gun tubs, and other hull and superstructure details. There was no way to really fix it, but I figured I could at least make it presentable.

Sarge kicked in a piece of thin sheet styrene from which I could cut a new flight deck. I applied a deck decal to the styrene, then carefully cut it out with scissors and a hobby knife. Liberal use of MicroSol provided a good bond. Before cementing the new deck in place, I repainted the ship in a darker gray and gave it a wash using some black ink. Then I ruined the paint-job with an overspray of Testors clear matte (I've just about given up on this stuff). I cleaned it off, repainted it with the flat dark gray, then a dry-brush with off-white and a bit of burnt sienna. Topped the funnels with a dab of flat black. I then painted the edge of the styrene dark gray to match.

With the painting done, I cemented the new flight deck onto the original using some Loctite GO2. I had to trim the deck slightly to clear the AA positions, but fortunately it's not too noticeable. The new deck, being a bit longer than the original, overhangs too much, especially over the bridge, but no worries. I was going to grind off the edges of the original deck forward (you can see it protruding on either side), but then realized the top-down view was basically correct, the protrusion actually being the gunwales of the hangar deck, one deck down. So I left it...looks sorta okay from an aerial view, but terrible in profile.

I found a clear plastic ODGW etched base for it in the supply drawers, but it was a bit long. I scored it with a knife, then snapped about an inch off the wake-end. I trimmed it up and rounded off the corners using the Dremel and a sanding wheel, then I made a label using Excel, scotch-taped it to the underside, trimming off the excess tape. Glued the ship to the base using more GO2. Normally I would have given the ship a shot of protective clear matte before basing, but until I can find a good alternative to Testors, I'll pass.

I actually have a few planes that I could paint and cement on the deck, but I'll defer on that for now (wingspan is roughly 3/16 of an inch). Instead, fighters are on CAP, everything else is stored below or away on a mission. Now I have a juicy target for my SBDs.

Seems to me, painting a big meatball on the flight deck was a tactical error by the Japanese, but what do I know. :lol:


Perfect aiming point for dive-bombers. Ask the Akagi. It only took one!

I think the ship looks fabulous!!!

George
What is a 'Conservative'? "Someone who wants society and policy to recognize objective reality- economic, biological, and historical."

—Katy Faust

User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Tue Sep 07, 2021 8:01 am

Lol, the IJN carriers had a number of design defects and, to my mind, painting the big meatball on the flight-deck (typically over an elevator) was but one of them. They figured that out and repainted the decks not terribly long after the war with the Americans started (but not before Midway). The biggest problem for IJN carriers was that the force of exploding bombs that penetrated to the hanger deck often ruptured the flight deck above, despite a design that supposedly directed the blast outward. The design fault was further exacerbated by poor venting of vapor and flash, together with inadequate aviation fuel handling equipment.

User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Thu Dec 09, 2021 11:19 am

Another casting from Rusty Rail. I wasn't sure where on the forum to put this little project; a figure of sorts, a long-abandoned Jeep:

Image

I visited Star Hobby in Annapolis the other day, replenishing the paint cabinet. An absolute crap-ton of stuff in that store, primarily model railroad related. The store was packed with customers as well, being this close to Christmas. Lots of stuff, so worth a visit. If you have an interest in G-scale, this looks like a good spot.

I'd been hunting for a red-orange paint for this jeep, and found a bottle of Vallejo Amaranth Red (FS31400) that looked like it would work. While there, I noticed Tamiya is now selling a line of lacquer-based paints. Hadn't seen them before, so I'll be interested in giving them a try on a suitable project. In the meantime, I reloaded with Tamiya acrylics.

The basecoat is on the Jeep. We'll see how this goes.

Rufus T. Firefly
Posts: 41330
Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 6:52 am
Location: Departed from this forum

Re: Figure painting

Postby Rufus T. Firefly » Sat Dec 11, 2021 9:47 am

healey36 wrote:Another casting from Rusty Rail.


I've had trouble getting the mold release off their castings - what did you use?

....Vallejo Amaranth Red (FS31400)..


Been looking for a dark orange myself - but I need something I can spray......

....Tamiya is now selling a line of lacquer-based paints.


Hmmmm..................now if we only had a hobby shop in the area.
Conservatism: The intense fear that somewhere, somehow, someone you think is inferior is being treated as your equal.

User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Sat Dec 11, 2021 10:11 am

Rufus T. Firefly wrote:
healey36 wrote:Another casting from Rusty Rail.


I've had trouble getting the mold release off their castings - what did you use?

....Vallejo Amaranth Red (FS31400)..


Been looking for a dark orange myself - but I need something I can spray......

....Tamiya is now selling a line of lacquer-based paints.


Hmmmm..................now if we only had a hobby shop in the area.

I use an old toothbrush and some mild soap. Most of their castings stand up to a vigorous scrubbing pretty well, but the vehicles, you have to use some care. Those castings can be a bit thin in places (fenders especially).

Star Hobby is the last exit off Rte. 50 before the Bay Bridge. Not too, too far.

Rufus T. Firefly
Posts: 41330
Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 6:52 am
Location: Departed from this forum

Re: Figure painting

Postby Rufus T. Firefly » Sat Dec 11, 2021 10:39 am

healey36 wrote:I use an old toothbrush and some mild soap. Most of their castings stand up to a vigorous scrubbing pretty well, but the vehicles, you have to use some care. Those castings can be a bit thin in places (fenders especially).


Okay. Nothing exotic, :wink: :wink:

Star Hobby is the last exit off Rte. 50 before the Bay Bridge. Not too, too far.


An hour w/o traffic.........but they are not open between 2 and 4 am, :mrgreen: Maybe a lunch time expedition would not be to heinous...
Conservatism: The intense fear that somewhere, somehow, someone you think is inferior is being treated as your equal.

User avatar
healey36
Posts: 6366
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 3:43 pm
Location: Westminster, MD

Re: Figure painting

Postby healey36 » Fri Jan 28, 2022 4:22 pm

Finished off the Rusty Rail Jeep casting:

Image

Realize now that it's pretty tough to apply contrast to orange paint, lol. Someone said that a bit of baking soda mixed with water can be used to give the appearance/texture of rust. Tried some of that here, but it kinda disappeared into the orange paint when given a brush of burnt sienna. The heck with it; some acrylic wash, than a dry-brush with some off-white followed by an overspray of Tamiya clear matte. Some static grass and it's done enough for me.


Return to “O-Gauge, 3-Rail, Model Railroading”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests