The Modelers Thread
Re: The Modelers Thread
My wife. Stores CA. glue upside down in a mason jar. Filled with rice. she show this recommendation on a crafter's website. Upside down storage keeps the glue from hardening in the tip. Rice keeps it dry and from falling over. so they say.
I spend entirely too many hours a day tying my shoes
Re: The Modelers Thread
Rufus T. Firefly wrote:Gee, don't read my column in OST, do you,![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Fridge will slow down self polymerization of unopened CA, but once opened the cooling/thawing to room temp condenses moisture and moisture is a catalyst for triggering CA polymerization.
Best storage is at room temp in a very tight desiccator with good desiccant - not those useless silica packs - those are crap. Get some real quality stuff - Drierite -- get it with color indicator in it. I've stored open CA using this for several years. My workshop is also very dry. I leave the CA open with a micro applicator tip on it on my bench and it lasts until I can't get the last drop out.
Nope...missed it,
I had to look up what a desiccator is. I didn't realize there were such things purpose-built for chemical storage. I'm guessing the methods used by Carnac the Magnificent (envelopes hermetically sealed in a mayonnaise jar on Funk and Wagnalls' porch) are unsuitable.
Thanks for the info.
- Rufus T. Firefly
- Posts: 42212
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 7:52 am
- Location: To be Determined
Re: The Modelers Thread
healey36 wrote:I had to look up what a desiccator is. I didn't realize there were such things purpose-built for chemical storage. I'm guessing the methods used by Carnac the Magnificent (envelopes hermetically sealed in a mayonnaise jar on Funk and Wagnalls' porch) are unsuitable.
Thanks for the info.
Actually, a mayonnaise jar with quality desiccant in it will work just fine! Maybe you can cadge some from Sarge,
Do not wait to strike till the iron is hot; but make it hot by striking.
Re: The Modelers Thread
1 hour. 1 window. 2 vertical splits. It beats a political rant


I spend entirely too many hours a day tying my shoes
- Rufus T. Firefly
- Posts: 42212
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 7:52 am
- Location: To be Determined
Re: The Modelers Thread
What are using to cut the scribed siding?
Do not wait to strike till the iron is hot; but make it hot by striking.
- Rufus T. Firefly
- Posts: 42212
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 7:52 am
- Location: To be Determined
Re: The Modelers Thread
Total rebuild on the underbody and sides......weight under the ballast load that was added, too. Ready to go to its new home.....
Last edited by Rufus T. Firefly on Mon Jul 03, 2023 6:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Do not wait to strike till the iron is hot; but make it hot by striking.
Re: The Modelers Thread
I used an exacto knife. For the other end . I may drill it out . I dont have real thin blades. I should have cut out the door . Before i cut the bottom notch.
I spend entirely too many hours a day tying my shoes
- Rufus T. Firefly
- Posts: 42212
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 7:52 am
- Location: To be Determined
Re: The Modelers Thread
robert. wrote:I used an exacto knife. For the other end . I may drill it out . I dont have real thin blades. I should have cut out the door . Before i cut the bottom notch.
X-Acto blades are traditional, but limited; suggest scalpel blades.
Do not wait to strike till the iron is hot; but make it hot by striking.
Re: The Modelers Thread
something this simple? https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Scalpel-Bl ... %3A2334524
I spend entirely too many hours a day tying my shoes
- Rufus T. Firefly
- Posts: 42212
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 7:52 am
- Location: To be Determined
Re: The Modelers Thread
robert. wrote:something this simple?
Yup! #11, but I also use #12, and #15 blades, and with a larger handle, #22 and #23 blades. I usually have 5 blades available on the bench at any given time. Use a set of fine needlenose pliers to put the blades on/off to avoid excess bloodshed. I also keep adhesive tape for bandages in my shop.
Do not wait to strike till the iron is hot; but make it hot by striking.
Re: The Modelers Thread
I don't know why anybody would buy an Exacto set. those kits are not cheap. scalpels are $7.00 for 100. A little more for some mix and match sets.
I spend entirely too many hours a day tying my shoes
Re: The Modelers Thread
Good info on the scalpel. I’ve been using exacto blades. I think I’ll give the scalpel blades a shot. Rufus, what did you use for ballast in the gondola?
-
J. S. Bach
- Posts: 5820
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 9:30 pm
- Rufus T. Firefly
- Posts: 42212
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 7:52 am
- Location: To be Determined
Re: The Modelers Thread
robert. wrote:I don't know why anybody would buy an Exacto set. those kits are not cheap. scalpels are $7.00 for 100. A little more for some mix and match sets.
They do go dull fairly fast as they are not designed for cutting wood, but when you slip and elicit bloodshed, it's generally a cleaner cut,
what did you use for ballast in the gondola?
That's just a mix of Woodland Scenics ballast - leftover from my layout.
I think that I got a similar car from you at a previous Strasburg, it is quite nice.
Quite probably -- these cars keep finding me and I keep rebuilding them........and then look for them to depart.
Do not wait to strike till the iron is hot; but make it hot by striking.
- Rufus T. Firefly
- Posts: 42212
- Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 7:52 am
- Location: To be Determined
Re: The Modelers Thread
Bit of a mess, but should also be a pretty quick rebuild and finishing job....
Last edited by Rufus T. Firefly on Mon Jul 03, 2023 6:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Do not wait to strike till the iron is hot; but make it hot by striking.
Return to “O-Gauge, 3-Rail, Model Railroading”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 30 guests
