Fixing Loose Drivers

[Roy]

I've been modifying a Lionel Redwood Valley Express General, and I've pulled the drivers so much, they're now loose on the axles. I could buy some new drivers, but it would be nice to know of ways to tighten the ones I have. These drivers are die-cast zamak, with plastic spoke inserts.

I remember reading something in the Lionel Manual about using giant nippers on the axle ends. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[CWBurfle]

The nipper method never worked well for me.
I find that a little thread locker works well.
One has to be careful to clean away any grease, dirt and oil first.
And keep the thread locker away from the bearings.

[Roy]

I find that a little thread locker works well.

Thanks, CW. What I have is the easy-to-find Loctite "blue" stuff. Is that what you use?

[CWBurfle]

Not trying to be smart, but I've used whatever I had in the shop.
Over the years it's been red, blue, or purple.

Right now I have purple in the shop.

According to the loctite web site, things secured with all three can be removed, but the red will require heat.
Also, I don't see purple on their web site, maybe they dropped it.

[rrjjf]

For what it is worth, I use Loctite 609 Retaining Compound (a green fluid) that really holds after it sets for 24 hours. I have been using it for several years to install insulated 2 rail tires on converted locomotives. The blue Loctite (242) is used for installing screws that you may want to remove in the future. It keeps side rod screws in place but a screwdriver can loosen them. McMaster Carr has all of the Loctite products in their on line catalog.

Joe Foehrkolb
Baldwin Forge & Machine

[Roy]

Thanks for that, Joe.

I know Loctite rates their stuff, by the screw size you use it on. The blue is for 1/4" diameter and up. The purple is for the screw sizes we O gaugers use. For some reason, it's considered part of their professional line. I can't imagine them dropping it.

I had another idea. These drivers with the plastic spoke inserts expose much of the length of their hubs, when the spoke piece is out. I can put it in my Unimat 3-jaw lathe chuck, and give it a bit of a squeeze. What do you think?

[Roy]

...I use Loctite 609 Retaining Compound (a green fluid) that really holds after it sets for 24 hours...

So, I went to McMaster Carr. I see that the retaining compound is different from thread locker, and is designed to work in press fit joints. Does it interfere with current flowing from the wheel to the axle?

[webenda]

I see that the retaining compound is different from thread locker, and is designed to work in press fit joints. Does it interfere with current flowing from the wheel to the axle?

That depends on whether your press fit is tight enough for the metals to break through the Locktite film and complete the circuit.

Locktite makes 3888 conductive adhesive for bonding parts that need to conduct electricity through the bond.

[Roy]

Thanks, Wayne. Have you used the Loctite 3888?

[webenda]

Thanks, Wayne. Have you used the Loctite 3888?

No, only Locktite blue on threads from 4-40 to 2 inches. I didn't know the colors were associated with thread diameter.

[Roy]

A bit of follow-up: I tried to tighten up the hubs with my Unimat 3-jaw lathe chuck, but I didn't have enough force available. I tried the 4-jaw chuck, and it worked. I just put the drivers back on tonight, and they were a tight fit.

Again, these are the die-cast drivers that have a plastic spoke insert. If you try this 4-jaw trick, be careful not to tighten the jaws too much. There's no doubt in my mind that you could crush the hub, by tightening the jaws too much.