Reviving older O Scale
Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2026 9:59 pm
See, I can see a light at the end of the tunnel, and it is an express train. Hopefully going someplace pleasant?
But then there will be literally hundreds of locomotive models without homes. I do have plans to get them distributed, but once that happens folks need to be aware of stuff.
I bought the last Lobaugh Challenger from a hobby shop in LA about 35 years ago - got it home, and literally had to separate drive wheels from axles, because the axles had corroded inside the brass bearings - well, the other way around, a layer of green stuff was seizing the steel axles. It took an arbor press. When I finished, the thing ran just fine.
This was the locomotive that sat in the showroom window of what was left of Lobaugh in the late 1970s. A guy named Jack owned it. The showroom, lots of Lobaugh parts, and the Challenger.
But I digress.
When my prize models hit the market, they will all need "loosening up" (well, all but the four or five I keep running on the test loops). I use auto engine oil on everything except gearboxes, and they get La Belle Teflon gear lube.
You will need a solvent. They abound, and some are better than others - try Liquid Wrench at first. If that doesn't work, believe it or not there is a product called "Mouse Milk" that has loosened severely corroded exhaust studs on the airplanes - try that.
A drop on each axle everywhere you can get the needle (you do have lubricating needles?). A drop on each crankpin, a drop on each crosshead guide, and maybe even on the ends of the worm shaft where it enters the gearbox.
For the gearboxes, you really shouldn't have much trouble. The Teflon lube seems to age quite well.
But disconnect the gearboxes, so you can roll the drivers. Work them until they are free enough to roll down a track with just the weight of the frame, cylinders, and motor. Most are NWSL, so use care when re-assembling. Those tiny screws should not take much torque, but you will feel the drag of the plastic, which keeps them from backing out. Make sure the axle bearings are up against the axle gear, so you get proper mesh.
A few are the older Scale Craft designs - you are on your own, but those mechanisms are kinda bullet proof - just a drop of oil, some grease, and try them.
Lobaugh boxes are tough - the worm is held on with incredibly short screws, and equally tiny lock washers. Do not insert longer screws - you can tear up the axle gear. Too complicated to include here - suffice to say I have converted most to NWSL.
Diesels: The big problem will be the chain drop-downs. The sprockets are regularly splitting. I need to prevail on Jay for some new components, but for some reason my hobby is more the original construction and operation, and once that is done they all become display items.
But man, can some of those Diesels pull! Typically six CLW transmissions, driven by two motors that rotate with the truck. I swear a couple of these things could pull my convertible Mustangs into the garage. A lot of them have wipers for six wheel pickup.
Sorry this is so long - motivated by my recent paint jobs. The SEM black rattle can paint seems to clamp on to surfaces, and after a week it will not come off driver tires. I probably spent 20 minutes last night cleaning #1274's drivers, and loosening the axles. I think I shall put some oil on the axles and pins, and go give it a spin - first time in over a decade!
But then there will be literally hundreds of locomotive models without homes. I do have plans to get them distributed, but once that happens folks need to be aware of stuff.
I bought the last Lobaugh Challenger from a hobby shop in LA about 35 years ago - got it home, and literally had to separate drive wheels from axles, because the axles had corroded inside the brass bearings - well, the other way around, a layer of green stuff was seizing the steel axles. It took an arbor press. When I finished, the thing ran just fine.
This was the locomotive that sat in the showroom window of what was left of Lobaugh in the late 1970s. A guy named Jack owned it. The showroom, lots of Lobaugh parts, and the Challenger.
But I digress.
When my prize models hit the market, they will all need "loosening up" (well, all but the four or five I keep running on the test loops). I use auto engine oil on everything except gearboxes, and they get La Belle Teflon gear lube.
You will need a solvent. They abound, and some are better than others - try Liquid Wrench at first. If that doesn't work, believe it or not there is a product called "Mouse Milk" that has loosened severely corroded exhaust studs on the airplanes - try that.
A drop on each axle everywhere you can get the needle (you do have lubricating needles?). A drop on each crankpin, a drop on each crosshead guide, and maybe even on the ends of the worm shaft where it enters the gearbox.
For the gearboxes, you really shouldn't have much trouble. The Teflon lube seems to age quite well.
But disconnect the gearboxes, so you can roll the drivers. Work them until they are free enough to roll down a track with just the weight of the frame, cylinders, and motor. Most are NWSL, so use care when re-assembling. Those tiny screws should not take much torque, but you will feel the drag of the plastic, which keeps them from backing out. Make sure the axle bearings are up against the axle gear, so you get proper mesh.
A few are the older Scale Craft designs - you are on your own, but those mechanisms are kinda bullet proof - just a drop of oil, some grease, and try them.
Lobaugh boxes are tough - the worm is held on with incredibly short screws, and equally tiny lock washers. Do not insert longer screws - you can tear up the axle gear. Too complicated to include here - suffice to say I have converted most to NWSL.
Diesels: The big problem will be the chain drop-downs. The sprockets are regularly splitting. I need to prevail on Jay for some new components, but for some reason my hobby is more the original construction and operation, and once that is done they all become display items.
But man, can some of those Diesels pull! Typically six CLW transmissions, driven by two motors that rotate with the truck. I swear a couple of these things could pull my convertible Mustangs into the garage. A lot of them have wipers for six wheel pickup.
Sorry this is so long - motivated by my recent paint jobs. The SEM black rattle can paint seems to clamp on to surfaces, and after a week it will not come off driver tires. I probably spent 20 minutes last night cleaning #1274's drivers, and loosening the axles. I think I shall put some oil on the axles and pins, and go give it a spin - first time in over a decade!
