Model Train Journal

Well, doesn't seem to be too much happening around here, so I'll pull the curtain back and show more work by the wizard of Mistakes. It really slowed down the momentum when I made an oversize hole in the sand/steam dome. I tried to make it with a hand drill and holding the dome with a gloved hand....bad idea, as the hole came out too large and off-center so I've spent a lot of time correcting it.

Bob, sent me a link to a Harbor Freight table top drill press for under $100 and it has made a lot of difference in my work. I also dug out my 30 year old virgin Smith Mini Torch, got some bottles of oxygen and propane and that made a huge difference as well. When working on larger pieces this torch should made the work much easier.....it certainly helped in closing the oversize hole.

I still have a weeks worth of house projects and then I can get back to the FEF project. Yes, the sand hatch opening need to be filed and made equal, but that will come when I start back in.

I find myself wondering if CLW could cast you a new dome? I think one came with my SC/CLW Northern kit. I haven't seen it in decades, but if it shows up it is yours.

I have four FEFs. You have seen them all in my UP steam thread. Union Pacific Vol 2 page 8. Prior photos seem to be "unlinked."

Well, I'm pretty committed to building with what I've got Bob, but I appreciate the offer. I think I'm on the right path now and I would much rather make this dome correct than replace it. It's a learning curve for sure, but I'm enjoying the learning, mistakes and all.

Well, after discovering the plating was wearing off the original brass MG wheels...they had to go. I don't know if USH went to steel wheels as I never had a need to check, but this being my 1st MG loco it was a surprise.

So, after doing some homework, I realized the best solution was custom made wheel/axles and contacted Jay Criswell @ Right-O-Way.

All the wheels on the tender and loco trailing truck are mounted on 5mm (actually .490mm) stock and machined down to .108 to .110 at the ends to slip in the side frames. The lead loco truck also used 5mm axle stock, but KTM threaded these axles (not shouldered) and the wheels spin on like a nut on a bolt. Jay did a press fit on the loco leading truck wheels, rather than the threaded approach, which I like.....he also did a quick paint job on the truck as you don't want to remove the wheels, once fitted, unless you have too. A major snafu was the lead truck had 5mm drilled openings in the frames making these axles a friction bearing, so proper diameters/dimensions was critical.

And to be honest, none of the stock 1/8" axles sold by online vendors would fit correctly, so bushings, bearings or ??? would be needed or make them fit properly.

ROW used the same 5mm diameter axle stock (.490mm) and machined the ends to match the original KTM dimensions. The code 145 steel wheels look fantastic and will improve the overall look of the model when it is finished and no additional bushing or bearing work is needed.

Great job Jay! You've made this project a little simpler for me and the cost was only a few dollars more than buying stock off the shelf NWSL wheel/axles. Something to be said about buying bespoke products from Jay.