Reviving older O Scale

[bob turner]

See, I can see a light at the end of the tunnel, and it is an express train. Hopefully going someplace pleasant?

But then there will be literally hundreds of locomotive models without homes. I do have plans to get them distributed, but once that happens folks need to be aware of stuff.

I bought the last Lobaugh Challenger from a hobby shop in LA about 35 years ago - got it home, and literally had to separate drive wheels from axles, because the axles had corroded inside the brass bearings - well, the other way around, a layer of green stuff was seizing the steel axles. It took an arbor press. When I finished, the thing ran just fine.
This was the locomotive that sat in the showroom window of what was left of Lobaugh in the late 1970s. A guy named Jack owned it. The showroom, lots of Lobaugh parts, and the Challenger.

But I digress.

When my prize models hit the market, they will all need "loosening up" (well, all but the four or five I keep running on the test loops). I use auto engine oil on everything except gearboxes, and they get La Belle Teflon gear lube.

You will need a solvent. They abound, and some are better than others - try Liquid Wrench at first. If that doesn't work, believe it or not there is a product called "Mouse Milk" that has loosened severely corroded exhaust studs on the airplanes - try that.

A drop on each axle everywhere you can get the needle (you do have lubricating needles?). A drop on each crankpin, a drop on each crosshead guide, and maybe even on the ends of the worm shaft where it enters the gearbox.

For the gearboxes, you really shouldn't have much trouble. The Teflon lube seems to age quite well.

But disconnect the gearboxes, so you can roll the drivers. Work them until they are free enough to roll down a track with just the weight of the frame, cylinders, and motor. Most are NWSL, so use care when re-assembling. Those tiny screws should not take much torque, but you will feel the drag of the plastic, which keeps them from backing out. Make sure the axle bearings are up against the axle gear, so you get proper mesh.

A few are the older Scale Craft designs - you are on your own, but those mechanisms are kinda bullet proof - just a drop of oil, some grease, and try them.

Lobaugh boxes are tough - the worm is held on with incredibly short screws, and equally tiny lock washers. Do not insert longer screws - you can tear up the axle gear. Too complicated to include here - suffice to say I have converted most to NWSL.

Diesels: The big problem will be the chain drop-downs. The sprockets are regularly splitting. I need to prevail on Jay for some new components, but for some reason my hobby is more the original construction and operation, and once that is done they all become display items.

But man, can some of those Diesels pull! Typically six CLW transmissions, driven by two motors that rotate with the truck. I swear a couple of these things could pull my convertible Mustangs into the garage. A lot of them have wipers for six wheel pickup.

Sorry this is so long - motivated by my recent paint jobs. The SEM black rattle can paint seems to clamp on to surfaces, and after a week it will not come off driver tires. I probably spent 20 minutes last night cleaning #1274's drivers, and loosening the axles. I think I shall put some oil on the axles and pins, and go give it a spin - first time in over a decade!

[Pacific Limited]

All good Bob, day by day. I am sort of thinking of thinning the herd. I sure don't need all these name trains. Let some go to someone else for awhile.

But keep on, keep goin...

Keep on O scalin'!

[SWrailroader]

Bob,
This is a very good primer for vintage O scale steam restoration. An invaluable recommendation you made to me a couple years ago is to use Allen head screws for the Lobaugh gearbox reassembly. This truly makes it much easier to assemble.

Been doing a lot of research lately on the so called “Blue Zones,” Places where people live to 100yo and have no dementia. One common element to all these cohorts is that they wake up each day with a purpose be it hobbies, art, etc. In a sense all of your hobbies, model trains, cars, and planes are likely keeping you more vital, more alive.

Take a gander at some of the YouTube videos on the Blue Zones mainly the ones set in Sardinia and the Greek island Ikaria. Some of the video essays are excellent such as the 60 minutes one on Ikaria. Other videos are just long commercials where they are peddling something.

Rob

[Rufus T. Firefly]

I am sort of thinking of thinning the herd.

Been doing that for several years now....

Keep on O scalin'!

And that's why I have to keep thinning the herd; I keep on building and rebuilding enough to fill up the shelves....

[up148]

I've downsized several times in the past decades, but always seem to buy more if it's something I've never had or the price is just too good. Most of the time I know I can resell and get my money back and that helps.

Right now many prices are down like the mint PSC Crown BB that Bill Davis has for sale. If that doens't bring a lot more than where it is now I'll be surprised.

Martin, I see you found your decals through Yard Sale. I love that place and no fees.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

Martin, I see you found your decals through Yard Sale. I love that place and no fees.

Yes, someone came through and pointed me to a source. I thought to inquire there out of desperation more than anything else.

I have had very mixed experiences with Yard Sale. My attempts to sell there have been met with silence; my attempts to buy there have repeatedly gone unanswered.

[up148]

My experience has been very favorable. I've sold almost everything I listed and I've heard back from sellers on items I was looking for....like the recent P&D powered kits that are like hensteeth.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

My experience has been very favorable.

Clearly works out for others....and I'll try again when there's something I might be interested in or selling.

....like the recent P&D powered kits that are like hensteeth.

Those are out there but prying them out of other hands is like trying to take away "their precious."

[bob turner]

Not prying any of this out of my hands -
Er - here are three that escaped before I got a digital camera. Top is an early Challenger from Jake Bechtel - my first real O Scale Lobaugh purchase. It went to Henry Leslie in a trade that involved a rather junky, rusty later Lobaugh Challenger.

Middle is Frank Thomson's Mi-Loco K5. He hated the Tuscan, so it now exists somewhere in a rather lighter Brunswick green. These were not bad models for their day.

And last, the "last" Lobaugh Challenger - mentioned in my first post. It belonged to Jack Campbell, then was sold when Lobaugh itself was sold to Jan Lorenzen and a Los Angeles hobby shop. I paid a premium. It was originally built by Bill Darling, who gave me what I had paid for it to re-own it. We both knew it was overpriced from the get-go, although it ran well and had fully sprung tender and trailing trucks.

[SWrailroader]

That early challenger is the nicest one I have seen. Nearly every early Lobaugh challenger in my experience appeared to be a significant project.

[Pacific Limited]

Beautiful such beautiful treasures.

[Pacific Limited]

Beautiful such beautiful treasures.

[bob turner]

I was thinking of adding to this thread, then got carried away with Berkshire stuff. Fear not; I am done with Berkshires except for two unfinished Lobaugh piles that may stay unfinished for a few more years.

I might - might - get involved with SP Consolidations and Moguls - but I have a Harriman Light Pacific to finish up, and this QJ project, which is stalled while I think about those ribs on the smoke lifters. Half tempted to make a jig to press them in. It would involve slitting a couple chunks of cold-rolled steel.

But my adder - I keep seeing projects on eBay that I could easily tackle - and then, realizing that I have a pile that will surely outlast me, I figure it is time to spend money on lag clamps, generators, and reversers - oh, and rattle can paint. So the bargains go to you guys, not me.

Speaking of rattle cans, the SEM $33 can is about empty - I left an 0-6-0 sit for a week before cleaning the driver tires. Don't do that - clean within 24 hours of spraying, or you will not be getting it off with lacquer thinner and a Q-Tip.

[Rufus T. Firefly]

I keep seeing projects on eBay that I could easily tackle - and then, realizing that I have a pile that will surely outlast me, I figure it is time to spend money on lag clamps, generators, and reversers - oh, and rattle can paint.

Same. I will probably sell off some of those projects in the queue as I thin that herd.

And those detail parts have gotten pricey!

[Nortonville Phil]

Currently I’m trying to revive a couple of O scale freight cars. One in particular is what I think is a Scale Craft 2 bay offset side hopper car. I am curious about that though. The car I have appears to be sand cast aluminum with no rivet detail. Wheras the 1935 Scale Craft OO scale hoppers that I have are finely detailed zinc die castings with nice rivet detail. I’m just surprised that this O hopper is not as nice as the OO. I was looking through my things the other day and came across an article about the Scale Model Railways catalog from sometime in the 30s’. There was a picture of what they called a C&O 2 bay hopper with the radial top end sheets at the ends of the car. That car appeared to have rivet detail. At first I thought the car I have might be SMR. Looking for any thoughts/insight you folks might have on the Scale Craft hopper. Thanks

Phil